Moroccan Hammams: A Bathing Ritual (that involves another person)

A Moroccan hammam is often touted as one of the must-do experiences while you are in Morocco. And for good reason! But what exactly is a Moroccan hammam, and what should you expect if you book one during your journey?

Quite simply, a hammam is a form of public bath. Similar to public baths of many cultures, it includes a steam room and requires the assistance of someone to complete the ritual. The steam room itself is called a hammam, which is where the ritual gets its name. However, generally, the entire building is often referred to as a hammam as well, much like a spa. You begin in the “warm room” to get you acclimated to the heat before moving into the “hot room”, which is actually a steam room, where you will relax for 10-15 minutes on a warm stone bench. In a larger hammam, these may be separate rooms, but in a smaller hammam, it will be the same room, just with added steam to increase the heat. You will then be slathered in a black beldi soap, made with olive oil, before being scrubbed from head to toe with an abrasive kessar mitt. This will scrub off dead skin, leaving your skin incredibly soft. After you are rinsed, you will go to “cold room” where you will relax with water and often tea with herbs.

In Morocco, a hammam is an integral part of every community.  In the Medinas in particular, it is a weekly experience for those who live there. However, the hammam of the locals and the hammam many travelers will experience are vastly different in a few respects. First, the public hammams in the Medina are just that - public. You will be in a room, naked (or nearly so), with many other people (separated by sex, of course). For locals, this is often a time to socialize and catch up on the news of the community, so it’s not the peaceful, serene setting many foreigners would expect in a “spa”. Also, many bring their own supplies (it costs more to use what is provided by the hammam), from soap to mitt to towels. Also, an attendant to assist you will also cost extra - many locals assist one another. After all, you can not fully reach every inch of your own body for a thorough scrub.  Finally, if you do wish to truly do like the locals and visit one of these, you likely will not find anyone who speaks English to explain things to you - maybe some French, but maybe not. 

The hammams that cater more to travelers, on the other hand, are much more private. If you book your hammam with members of the same sex in your party, there will likely be two or three of you in the hammam at the same time.  So make sure you are comfortable together, or else be sure to book separate times. It will also be a more luxurious experience. This is meant as a pampering spa treatment rather than a weekly deep cleaning. As such, you will likely find a menu of additional products and services on offer, including mud wraps with ghassoul clay, extra treatments with fragrant eucalyptus creams, or moisturizing with argan oil. Many also include hair washing as well, and most locations that offer hammams also offer massages to complete the relaxation. A quick note of clarification, however - most are not professionally trained massage therapists, so if you are looking for a skillful deep tissue massage or body work, you may wish to do a bit more research into finding one that will meet your standards. However, if you are just looking for relaxation, that can easily be accomplished. 

So now that I’ve explained the basics of a hammam, let me walk you through what exactly occurs during one. Keep in mind, each location can have small variations, so yours may not go *exactly* like this. But the following comes from my experience with several different hammams in Fes and Marrakech. 

First, you are taken into a room to change, much like any spa. You have a locker to stow your clothing and belongings, and you are given flip flops, a robe, and disposable underwear (for men, you may choose to just wear your underwear and bring a dry pair for after; for women...this is merely for show, as you’ll see later, so I wouldn’t recommend bothering to bring your own).  Once you are robed, your attendant will take you into the hammam itself, where you will relinquish your robe and you will lay down on a stone slab or bench (in some locations, this first steam room may be separate from the subsequent scrubbing cabin). You will lay on the warmed stone bench or slab to relax for a bit. The bench should not be too hot, but if you have extra sensitive skin, be sure to ask for another towel for insulation before your attendant leaves. The steam is often scented with eucalyptus, making it wonderfully soothing. After the steam is turned off, your attendant will slather you, front and back (if a towel is not laid down, be very careful as you turn over!), and you will likely be left to relax for a few more minutes to allow the soap to further soften your skin.

Your attendant will then begin scrubbing you. The mitt is quite abrasive, rather akin to a coarse sand paper, and your attendant will not be afraid to use it! I will not lie, it is nearly bordering on painful, but stops just short of it. They will scrub until your dead skin pills up like the remnants of an eraser. And you will be scrubbed EVERYWHERE. This is not a time to be shy about your body. Don’t worry, they’ve seen it all, and they’re judging you.  For men, my husband tells me the underwear stays in place. For women, however, it definitely gets moved to thoroughly scrub everywhere without the impediment of the paper thong strings.

After you are thoroughly scrubbed, you will be rinsed to remove all the dead skin pills. If you have other treatments, like a mud wrap (highly recommended), it is applied then, and you will relax for a bit longer before it is rinsed. Your hair will also be washed. If you have color treated hair, these products are likely going to leach some out - my last hammam attendant was rather surprised by the quantity of blue suds coming from my head!  You are rinsed a final time with cool water, then your attendant will dry you off and help you back into your robe and sandals. From here, you move into a warm, dimly lit relaxation area with comfortable loungers, and you’re given a bottle of water and perhaps some juice or tea with special herbs. Just like after a massage, it’s important to rehydrate. You will take your time to come of the warm fog that permeates you in the hammam, then return to the locker room to dress. Some hammams offer hair dryers and brushes, but not all do. 

Of course, not all hammams are created equal. Just because one is offered by a five star hotel does not make it superior (or even good, in a few unfortunate cases).  This is one of the reasons I try a new hammam every time I am in Marrakech, and occasionally in Fes. My top three favorites (in alphabetical order so I don’t have to pick a favorite) are Bahia Salam Riad & Spa in Marrakech, La Maison Arabe in Marrakech, and La Maison Bleue in Fes. One commonality between all of these three are that they are small, intimate spaces. While I have had very good hammams in some larger hotels, the experience of feeling like I’m the only one in the spa (which sometimes I am) is much more relaxing than being in a larger spa with others. 

So, have you ever tried a Moroccan hammam? What were your thoughts? Would you do it again?