A Tour of Gibraltar

Explore the military tunnels of Gibraltar with us! Gibraltar has been a British Overseas Territory since the early 18th century but maintains a close relationship with Spain. English and Spanish are both spoken in this region.

The Barbary macaques (monkeys) are amongst the most ‘famous’ residents of Gibraltar and are a popular subject for tourist photographers!

Tasting History with Max Miller - Berber Pizza of the Sahara!

Earlier this year we were thrilled to play host to Max Miller in Morocco! Max is the host of the viral digital series Tasting History with Max Miller on Youtube, where he explores historic dishes from across the world. Max has also recently published a cookbook titled Tasting History, chock full of different historic recipes that you can try out on your own at home! Watch this video to learn more about Moroccan Berber pizza!

Max’s cookbook Tasting History is available for purchase on Bookshop, Barnes & Noble or Amazon.

Moroccan Hammams: A Bathing Ritual (that involves another person)

A Moroccan hammam is often touted as one of the must-do experiences while you are in Morocco. And for good reason! But what exactly is a Moroccan hammam, and what should you expect if you book one during your journey?

Quite simply, a hammam is a form of public bath. Similar to public baths of many cultures, it includes a steam room and requires the assistance of someone to complete the ritual. The steam room itself is called a hammam, which is where the ritual gets its name. However, generally, the entire building is often referred to as a hammam as well, much like a spa. You begin in the “warm room” to get you acclimated to the heat before moving into the “hot room”, which is actually a steam room, where you will relax for 10-15 minutes on a warm stone bench. In a larger hammam, these may be separate rooms, but in a smaller hammam, it will be the same room, just with added steam to increase the heat. You will then be slathered in a black beldi soap, made with olive oil, before being scrubbed from head to toe with an abrasive kessar mitt. This will scrub off dead skin, leaving your skin incredibly soft. After you are rinsed, you will go to “cold room” where you will relax with water and often tea with herbs.

In Morocco, a hammam is an integral part of every community.  In the Medinas in particular, it is a weekly experience for those who live there. However, the hammam of the locals and the hammam many travelers will experience are vastly different in a few respects. First, the public hammams in the Medina are just that - public. You will be in a room, naked (or nearly so), with many other people (separated by sex, of course). For locals, this is often a time to socialize and catch up on the news of the community, so it’s not the peaceful, serene setting many foreigners would expect in a “spa”. Also, many bring their own supplies (it costs more to use what is provided by the hammam), from soap to mitt to towels. Also, an attendant to assist you will also cost extra - many locals assist one another. After all, you can not fully reach every inch of your own body for a thorough scrub.  Finally, if you do wish to truly do like the locals and visit one of these, you likely will not find anyone who speaks English to explain things to you - maybe some French, but maybe not. 

The hammams that cater more to travelers, on the other hand, are much more private. If you book your hammam with members of the same sex in your party, there will likely be two or three of you in the hammam at the same time.  So make sure you are comfortable together, or else be sure to book separate times. It will also be a more luxurious experience. This is meant as a pampering spa treatment rather than a weekly deep cleaning. As such, you will likely find a menu of additional products and services on offer, including mud wraps with ghassoul clay, extra treatments with fragrant eucalyptus creams, or moisturizing with argan oil. Many also include hair washing as well, and most locations that offer hammams also offer massages to complete the relaxation. A quick note of clarification, however - most are not professionally trained massage therapists, so if you are looking for a skillful deep tissue massage or body work, you may wish to do a bit more research into finding one that will meet your standards. However, if you are just looking for relaxation, that can easily be accomplished. 

So now that I’ve explained the basics of a hammam, let me walk you through what exactly occurs during one. Keep in mind, each location can have small variations, so yours may not go *exactly* like this. But the following comes from my experience with several different hammams in Fes and Marrakech. 

First, you are taken into a room to change, much like any spa. You have a locker to stow your clothing and belongings, and you are given flip flops, a robe, and disposable underwear (for men, you may choose to just wear your underwear and bring a dry pair for after; for women...this is merely for show, as you’ll see later, so I wouldn’t recommend bothering to bring your own).  Once you are robed, your attendant will take you into the hammam itself, where you will relinquish your robe and you will lay down on a stone slab or bench (in some locations, this first steam room may be separate from the subsequent scrubbing cabin). You will lay on the warmed stone bench or slab to relax for a bit. The bench should not be too hot, but if you have extra sensitive skin, be sure to ask for another towel for insulation before your attendant leaves. The steam is often scented with eucalyptus, making it wonderfully soothing. After the steam is turned off, your attendant will slather you, front and back (if a towel is not laid down, be very careful as you turn over!), and you will likely be left to relax for a few more minutes to allow the soap to further soften your skin.

Your attendant will then begin scrubbing you. The mitt is quite abrasive, rather akin to a coarse sand paper, and your attendant will not be afraid to use it! I will not lie, it is nearly bordering on painful, but stops just short of it. They will scrub until your dead skin pills up like the remnants of an eraser. And you will be scrubbed EVERYWHERE. This is not a time to be shy about your body. Don’t worry, they’ve seen it all, and they’re judging you.  For men, my husband tells me the underwear stays in place. For women, however, it definitely gets moved to thoroughly scrub everywhere without the impediment of the paper thong strings.

After you are thoroughly scrubbed, you will be rinsed to remove all the dead skin pills. If you have other treatments, like a mud wrap (highly recommended), it is applied then, and you will relax for a bit longer before it is rinsed. Your hair will also be washed. If you have color treated hair, these products are likely going to leach some out - my last hammam attendant was rather surprised by the quantity of blue suds coming from my head!  You are rinsed a final time with cool water, then your attendant will dry you off and help you back into your robe and sandals. From here, you move into a warm, dimly lit relaxation area with comfortable loungers, and you’re given a bottle of water and perhaps some juice or tea with special herbs. Just like after a massage, it’s important to rehydrate. You will take your time to come of the warm fog that permeates you in the hammam, then return to the locker room to dress. Some hammams offer hair dryers and brushes, but not all do. 

Of course, not all hammams are created equal. Just because one is offered by a five star hotel does not make it superior (or even good, in a few unfortunate cases).  This is one of the reasons I try a new hammam every time I am in Marrakech, and occasionally in Fes. My top three favorites (in alphabetical order so I don’t have to pick a favorite) are Bahia Salam Riad & Spa in Marrakech, La Maison Arabe in Marrakech, and La Maison Bleue in Fes. One commonality between all of these three are that they are small, intimate spaces. While I have had very good hammams in some larger hotels, the experience of feeling like I’m the only one in the spa (which sometimes I am) is much more relaxing than being in a larger spa with others. 

So, have you ever tried a Moroccan hammam? What were your thoughts? Would you do it again?

The Magic and Wonder of Morocco

When the opportunity came along to visit Morocco with Wanderlust Voyages, I thought “sure, why not?”. It was never on my radar of places that "I need to go" but the trip looked cool and I am all about exploring new destinations. I had no idea of the impact this place would actually have on me. Morocco made me feel completely out of my element and I loved it. There were times that it was stressful, chaotic and simply just overloaded my senses but as I sit here writing this I’m literally crying because I miss it so much.

With heavy influences from Africa, Spain and France there is a wide diversity in the people, the spoken languages (multilingual Moroccans will put you to shame), the architecture and landscapes which are filled with snow capped mountains, beautiful deserts and maze like Medina’s where sensory overload is an understatement.

In Morocco, most mosques are off limits to non-muslims. One of the few exceptions is the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca. It sits above the Atlantic Ocean and is a beautiful sight.

We made our way to Rabat which a had a cute modern metro feel in downtown with coffee (good luck trying to get dairy free creamer) and chocolate shops.

During the rest of our stays we stayed in a riad in Fes called La Maison Bleue . Where the beds are heated, which is really nice when it's chilly. Shelly and I set the temps to high because we were frozen and woke up thinking we were on fire! So they really work! We really wanted another shot on those heated beds at the desert camp! Just saying.

No worries if you're looking to be pampered after all the exploring, I have to say Morocco had some seriously bougie places to stay, play (including award winning golf and casinos), spa (hammam is on my to do list next time around) , eat and shop. Moroccans have succeeded in finding a perfect balance in preserving their cultural heritage while being a forward thinking modern society with every convenience.

Our first dinner was in “Old Rabat” where we had dinner in a riad, which is a traditional Moroccan home and a must see, if not stay in Morocco. It is characterized with an inner courtyard or garden as its central element of the building. We visited many riads over the coming days and each time it was like we found our own splendid treasure from the architectural details, historical elements and lush gardens.

Following the Islamic principle of privacy and inward reflection, there will be very little giving away its secret treasures outwardly, it will be inside where you will find its beauty. Walking in an alleyway in the Medina you could pass a palace thinking it was just a simple doorway in a wall.

At a restaurant called Dar Rbatia is where we got our first taste of Moroccan cuisine. Pastilla (B'stilla), Tagine chicken, Zaalooke salad and our soon to be favorite beverage Moroccan Tea. We couldn’t seem to get enough of this warm, sugary, minty treat. We probably drank our weight in it. There is even an art to pouring it. Apparently the higher the tea pot is held from the glass the better! We took an amazing cooking class to learn how to make the tea, Zaalooke salad and Tagine chicken at La Maison Arabe. 

Stopping in Meknes for a winery tour and tasting at Les Celliers de Meknes. (we may have bought a few ….. or maybe 6 bottles each for the road) Shukran! (Thank you!)

Medina’s are the historic hearts of Moroccan cities. We explored Medina's in both Fes and Marrakech, which are both UNESCO World Heritage sites. Part market, part shopping center, part residential. In the winding narrow alleyways you’ll be surrounded by gorgeous leather bags, intoxicating spices, colorful rugs, ornate metal lamps, and enticing delicacies like dates, olives, figs and oranges and with lots of bargaining to be had.

If you hear someone yelling "balak", watch out! You run the risk of being run over by a donkey cart or motorbike. It’s recommended you find a guide your first time, as it can be overwhelming and you can definitely get swindled. Morocco felt very safe as you're unlikely to be in any real physical danger but as you would traveling anywhere in the world you'd want to stay vigilant to petty crime.

With the volume of people and sheer abundance, I was struck at how remarkably clean the Medina's were, especially walking thru the fish markets. Our local grocery stores that are supposedly sanitary still can have that “fishy” smell and there was absolutely none of that….the tannery…that was another story (bring mint to stuff up your nostrils, especially summertime.....yes, mint...up the nose..seriously).

Artisan work is taken very seriously and often passed on over generations. From baker to table maker the pride in craftsmanship is evident.

This being my first opportunity to visit a Muslim country, I had never before experienced a call to prayer. I am not a religious person but there was something beautiful and peaceful about the melodic call 5 times per day. It reminded me of my yoga meditation where you stop for a few deep cleansing breaths and to re-center yourself multiple times per day. It gave me a deeper understanding as to why the people there seem so at peace and open.

We spent A LOT of time driving through the low, middle and high parts of the range. (Bring Dramamine if you’re prone to motion sickness) Put simply, if you want to see the country, plan on spending a good amount of time on the road. The variety of terrain and villages we visited was amazing. The largest population of people that live here are Berber (Amazigh -free people), a North African culture with influences that goes back thousands of years including a blending of southern Europe during a Roman rule. Each village offered a completely different feel.

A pitstop to visit with Macaque monkeys in Azrou was an unexpected delight. These monkey’s were just roaming freely and very accustomed to visitors, so accustomed in fact, this guy tried to give Shelly a kiss!

Morocco is known for it's rose water and argan oil. We made stops along the way to buy some locally made items and support the local economy and women cooperatives. Needless to say we smelled fantastic!

A stop in Khamlia Village we were treated to Moroccan tea and some musical entertainment from the Gnawa tribe which are a people who’s ancestors were originally from areas of Africa like Sudan, Mali and Niger that were forced to move across the Sahara as part of the worldwide slave trade. Shackled as they crossed the desert, they sang to soothe and found mindfulness in the rhythmic chanting and clanking. Centuries later their direct descendants now play this spiritual music as a tribute to their culture and homeland.

Along the Algerian border, families live the migrant lifestyle of a nomad, following their animals in search of water and food. We were warmly welcomed with Moroccan tea and dates by a family in their camp. I was entranced by the joy and strength of these people living this impressive yet harsh lifestyle, cementing further my thoughts that you really don’t need very many things to live and be happy.

One of the highlights that I was really looking forward to was riding a camel to Golden Camp, our glamping spot in the Sahara. Because how effin cool is that?!! Turns out riding a camel for 90 minutes is pretty uncomfortable and give you a much deeper and unpleasant understanding of “camel toe”😳. However, there’s an eerie silence in the desert when the sun sets and the wind dies down where you feel a great sense of peace and connection to the universe. The beautiful color of the desert up close at sunset, riding with a group of a people in complete silence with this strong feeling that we were all connected. A place where the enormity of that very special moment in time is so overwhelming that your heart aches each time you think of it.

Morocco, 10 days was not enough ....you've left me wanting so much more.

- Lily Rosko, Lime Time Travel

Flavors of Morocco

What is Moroccan food like? In a word, delicious! It’s also complex, exotic, intriguing, enticing, addictive, beautiful - well, you get the idea. It’s amazing. The complexity of spices, the beauty of the presentation, the aromas that assault your sense of smell . . . it all works together to provide a wonderful food experience! I always thought of cinnamon as a “sweet” spice (think cinnamon rolls, apple pie, etc.) but I learned that it’s so much more. Who knew it paired so well with savory spices? Cinnamon is a spice staple in Moroccan cooking, along with cumin, turmeric, saffron and a host of others. Cilantro is a commonly used herb, as well, showing me that’s it’s not just for Mexican food. I learned so much from just experiencing the food of Morocco, that I can’t wait to return and take a cooking class!

Cooking mainly uses a tagine, which is a traditional Moroccan cooking pot. Made of clay or metal, tagines have a short bottom (think pie plate shape) and sport a cone shaped lid, which allows the steam to rise to the top, then fall back onto the food, keeping it extremely moist and flavorful. They can be used over an open fire, a grill, or stove top. When reading or speaking of tagines, there is the pot, but also the name of the food - Tagine of Beef, Tagine of Lamb, etc.

Usually tagines are cooked with meat and vegetables, and surprisingly the addition of lemons, olives, or dates combine to create a superb mix of deliciousness. Tagine of vegetables, eggs & cheese for breakfast? Yes, please!

To eat a tagine, you need bread, another staple of Moroccan food. This isn’t your grocery store mass produced white bread, but a fresh, delicious round of non-processed, homemade bread. You tear a chunk of the bread and use it as a means to scoop up a bite of food, which is then eaten together. Also great for taking advantage of the glorious juices. Who needs utensils, when you have fingers? This give a whole new meaning to “breaking bread together.”

A Moroccan barbeque is nothing like the common barbeque you think of in the U.S. It’s grilled skewers of chunks of chicken, lamb, or beef, grilled with spices which are so delicious, it keeps you eating just “one more bite!” Need a bit more seasoning for your particular taste? Salt & cumin replace the more commonly known salt & pepper usually found on the table. These barbeque stands can be found along the sides of the road, which draws you in with the enticing smoky, savory smells.

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Dessert usually consists of fruit instead of sweets like are common in the U.S. I found this quite refreshing. The simplicity of the fruit after an explosion of spices is a great finish to your meal. This is not to say that Moroccan’s don’t have their sweets, because they do. The cookies are to die for! Typically a bit less sweet than what is found in the U.S., which I personally found more enjoyable. Honey is used in a lot of the sweets, as well as sesame seeds. Again, something I’m not sure why it surprised me, but it did. I think of sesame seeds being used in a savory dish, not a sweet. But it works, and it works wonderfully!

This is just a small glimpse into the food of Morocco, and I hope you’re intrigued to find out more. The best way to do that is to experience it for yourself. Book a tour today and check out all Morocco has to offer!